Off on my travels

I’ve spent the past few days in Kyiv, Ukraine. One way and another, I’m travelling quite a lot at the moment, but all I tend to see is the inside of hotels and conference centres, so I was determined to do a tour of Kyiv. Unfortunately, by the time the allotted day came round, I was absolutely exhausted, so I haven’t seen nearly as much as I would have liked.

General impressions, though, are very good. The streets in central Kyiv are all very wide – probably fifty metres between buildings on the main roads – which means there is plenty of room to stroll through a city that was either not too badly affected by the ravages of communist architecture or is doing a good job of renovating itself. It also makes the city quiet, despite the heavy traffic. There’s plenty to see and do – the Museum of the Great Patriotic War is very interesting, and it’s lovely to walk along the Dnieper and see the islands in the river.

The Atlantic Treaty Association’s 55th General Assembly brought me to the Ukraine. Ukraine is, as we know, on a path that may, if the people desire it, take it into NATO. While it remains controversial, the people I met here, from the government and broader civil society, suggested to me that there is commitment to modernisation and Euro-Atlantic integration, whether or not that actually means signing up to the Washington Treaty or not.

The next few weeks see me in Macedonia, Slovakia and maybe Montenegro.

xD.

Connecticut Avenue, Washington, DC, 22 February

I lived, for a short time, on Connecticut Avenue in DC and it was with a few hours of layover and a profound sense of nostalgia that I took a very familiar train journey, on the red line from Union Station to Cleveland Park.

Things there have both changed and not changed. The Uptown Theatre is, of course, still there and a few of the shops – Uptown Opticians, Magruder’s Farmers’ Market, Ireland’s 4 Provinces (now called Ireland’s 4 Fields), Nanny O’Briens and the 7-Eleven – that I used to frequent are still there. The Park & Shop by Cleveland Park metro station was one of the USA’s first strip malls; fortunately, it was still enough of a novelty for people to give some consideration to making it attractive and it is vastly more pleasant that some of the shopping parades you might see in the USA today. Some have gone; the coffee shop I used to stop at almost every day has been replaced by a health food store and a couple of bars have gone.

That much is to be expected; business close, people move on and areas change. What surprised me was that Cleveland Park – a relatively well-heeled neighbourhood – seemed to be suffering. Even on Sundays, it used to be busy and it was always well-kept. Now, there are a few empty shops and the streets are a little shabby. I suppose that the recession means people aren’t painting the storefronts and the District can’t pick up the trash as often; I don’t know. It was terribly sad to walk around. Don’t get me wrong; I’m sure that Cleveland Park is still a lovely place to live and it’s still pretty well-to-do; my memory is probably adding a goodly amount of gilding as well. If there is one part of the USA that I know better than any other, it is Cleveland Park. That little part of Washington is suffering.

Anyone watching me wander round must have thought I was quite mad but, in the end, there didn’t seem much to do other than head back to Union Station. I guess that Peter de Vries was right – “nostalgia isn’t what it used to be”.

xD.

London snow

Evidently, the UK has come to a halt because of the snow. As I mentioned in my previous post, I’m in Oslo. Suffice to say that ten or fifteen centimetres of snow isn’t a problem for Norway.

Looking at Facebook, lots of people are complaining that the snow brings London to a halt. Ten centimetres of snow lying on the ground, up here, can be counted on consistently during the winter. In the UK, it’s a once in fifteen or twenty year event. It’s simply not worth building the transport system to deal with events that happen so infrequently. It would make as much sense as Norway preparing itself for sand being blown in from the Sahara.

Stop complaining, build a snow person and enjoy the day off work.

xD.

Oslo, ten degrees below freezing

Actually, it’s rather colder than that now.

My travels have brought me to Oslo, which is a pleasant city with more than a few sights to be seen. Unfortunately, I only had today to wander round. I arrived relatively early this morning and the combination of the hour, being a Sunday and the cold meant that hardly anyone was about, despite it being a bright, clear day. The effect was rather eerie; everything is either clean and well-maintained or clean, well-maintained and covered in snow and with so few people about, it felt as if the city was too big for its population. It wasn’t quite 28 Days Later, but it did feel as if it was circa 2045 and the population had declined somewhat. I fully expect tomorrow to be busier.

As I was saying, Oslo is a very pleasant city to walk around. I wish I’d brought a camera; as it is, you will have to make do with a mobile phone photo of the rather wonderful new opera house.

Oslo opera house

It seems that Oslo is following in the footsteps of cities like Cardiff and Bilbao in using a cultural centrepiece to regenerate waterside areas. The Operahuset is, I’m told, meant to look like part of an iceberg, something that we might suddenly find to be in short supply, although the ships in the harbour made me think more of the prow of a ship. Either way, the roof slopes down to ground level, meaning that you can walk right up to the top, affording yourself a lovely view of the top of the Oslofjord. I really like the building; its use of glass to open up the foyer, offices and, at the back, the props departments combined with the public space created around and on top of it, are, at a guess, something to do with demystifying or opening up the opera; its unusual shape certainly encourages people to wander round and see what’s going on.

Oslo lying at 59° 56? 58? N, this is the furthest north I have ever been; it edges out my previous boreal approach, St Petersburg, by a few arcseconds. It is two-thirds of the way from the Equator to the North Pole.

xD.

Photos from Paris

Alice and I went to Paris shortly after New Year for a few days and had a lovely time. Although a bit cold, damp and grey, we thoroughly enjoyed it. A few photos follow below for your delectation. Clicking on a photo will bring it up full-size.
The Louvre pyramid

Louvre Reflection

The pyramidal entrance to the Louvre is fantastic. As well as being attractive, it works well as an identifying mark for the Louvre and is functional, pouring sunlight into the basement hall beneath. The reflection of the pyramid on the edge of the fountain caught my eye; it just happened to have been drained, showing what I think is polished granite.

Veiled statues

A night at the museum

I peered through the wooden gate you can see at the back of the photo and saw this scene from behind, but couldn’t find a decent shot. I was delighted when I could get this from the other side. Despite the Louvre being quite busy, this seemed like an ocean of calm. The sign said that it was a set of statues that had been put there to protect them from flooding. There was something very strange about these statues; they almost seemed to object to their treatment.

A rose by any other name

Talking of melancholy, this statue caught my eye. The grey days didn’t make for good photos, but you can just about see that the flower she holds is a live rose placed by someone. She seems to be choosing between love and wealth, judging by the dog next to her.

Rose statue

Colours

These three are just random colours together; the first is a stack of berets in a touristy shop near Notre Dame while the other two are from shops selling material in Montmartre.

Stacks of berets

Materials

Rolls of material

xD.